The Santa Cruz Trek is one of South America’s classic high-altitude hikes, crossing the Cordillera Blanca range near Huaraz, Peru. It spans 60km of remote valleys, glacial lakes, snow-capped peaks, and climbs the dramatic Punta Unión Pass at 4,750m. It also has you hike below Artesonraju Mountain (6,025m), known for its use in the Paramount Logo. The typical itinerary is four days, but I combined Days 2 & 3 to finish a day earlier.
Aldo’s Guest House is the best hostel in Huaraz, mostly because of Aldo. He’s a local climber who can advise on any mountain or trek. He recommended a guide service that was $100 with portered tents, food, and shuttles either side. It was better value than renting a tent and going solo as I had planned. He even loaned me a sleeping bag, rain pants and big rucksack for free. At the hostel I met Lea from Austria, who was also planning three days. Aldo explained all we needed to know, including how to find a local bus back after.
Day 1
We left at 5:00am on our bus to the trail head, up zig-zagging gravel roads for four hours before a lunch break. We stopped again at Lagunas del Valle Llanganuco (3,850m) which was incredibly blue, then down the zig-zags on the other side for two more hours. The hike crosses back over the whole range so the drive after is much shorter, but getting to this side was rough. At the trailhead we did proper introductions with our guide Cesar, chef Jesus, our team of porter donkeys, and the other clients; Rory, Eva, William, Etienne, Phoebe & Jimmy.
The donkeys carried team gear and food, and once loaded and gone we followed. It was a beautiful sunny day, following a small stream through grassy fields into the valley. Lots of sheep and old stone walls until we reached a ranger station to sign into the national park, then it became much more remote. Our camp was in a scenic spot below Punta Unión Pass, and the food was hearty and filling. It was loud by the stream and the stars were amazing. I was glad to be here with this group, having laughed and joked the whole day. We spent the night playing cards and sharing stories.
Day 2
Lea and I started early at 7am, as there was a lot of snow and we had a longer day. The first hour was misty and grey, the next was icy and white. Thick snow made the route difficult to find, and sections of climbing boulders had our hands freezing. At times we walked beside frozen lakes, at others we struggled up rocky slopes that were too icy to stand on. It was slow breaking trail, so we were followed and eventually caught up to by Rory, Eva, William & Etienne. Together we routed through deep snow to the narrow gap of Punta Unión Pass at 4,750m.
We later learned the donkeys were struggling on the ice and it delayed the guides a few hours. We hoped to spot them through the fog, but unable we continued on. The next valley was stunning. A fast descent brought us past thawing lakes, and down to green fields where we followed a stream to Taullipampa Camp st 4,250m. We were sat in the sun below the Paramount mountain, and by the stream it felt like paradise. The others drank water and hid in the shade, finished for the day. Lea & I left some of our gear here, and started our out and back to the lake they would see tomorrow.
We crossed bridges and flooded sections for 2.5km until we reached our side trail. From here we pushed up a new valley under a harsh sun for two hours. We saw a forest of flaky trees, some robust looking cows, and hiked a steep path beside a waterfall that flowed out from the lake. As the trail leveled out we reached a sign; Arhuaycocha Lake (4,420m). I did my highest swim to date, which was freezing but beautiful looking up at the sharp peak of Alpamayo (5,947m). The sun warmed me quickly after, and we made a fast descent.
It was a shame we had to backtrack a little to camp, but we were delighted regardless. The sun had just dropped behind the mountains as we arrived at 5:30pm. Another hearty dinner felt well deserved, and the others talked all night about how crazy the snowy pass had been. The guides said it was the worst conditions they’d seen, but it felt like an old memory after swimming in the lake under the sun since. We played more games that evening, and watched the stars in what was a silent and undisturbed night.
Day 3
At 8am we packed up and left. Lea & I stuck with the group until they turned for the lake, then continued alone. An hour later we passed what would be their final camp, and from there walked on a sandy riverbed that hinted of past floods. The river grew in size, and as we left the valley we began to see farms and hints of civilisation. The last section was unreal, following huge rapids and waterfalls for a steep 1,000m descent. It was tough on the legs, but so exciting for the kayaker in me. Where the rapids ended we reached the town of Cashapampa. We negotiated a fair price for a taxi to Caraz (on insane roads), then took a local bus to Huaraz. We celebrated at an Indian restaurant, and with many free drinks from Aldo.
I loved the hike, and was very happy it went to plan. Lea was back in time for an early flight the next morning, and I was back in time to meet Kevin as he arrived. I had travelled for weeks with him while Backpacking Central America, and now he was back to join me here. Over the coming days we hiked near the town, and drove back over the terrible mountain roads for a hike to Laguna 69 (highlight of Huaraz), where we swam at 4,604m! With his new acclimatisation we summited Cerro Mateo (5,150m), and with that Kevin was ready for all that was to come on our trip through Peru & Bolivia.
