8,000 years ago, the Cabanas & Collaguas settled in a deep canyon that had a reliable river and shade from its cliffs. They built irrigation systems and agricultural terraces that are still used today. 600 years ago, the Incan Empire added more advanced farms and food storage warehouses, known as colcas. 400 years ago, the Spanish exploited local labour, leading to small villages and churches. Now free from colonial rule, the local people are proud of their traditions in agriculture and textiles. The area is studied for how well preserved the culture remains.
The Colca Canyon has become famous for being one of the deepest in the world. It has a depth of 4,160m at it’s maximum, which is double that of the Grand Canyon. It’s also the best place to see the largest flying bird in the world, the Andean Condor. They have a wingspan of over three metres and are incredible to see up close. The terraces and vibrant cultures deep below make this a popular destination for tourists, either to look in from viewpoints on a bus trip, or to brave the hills and head down!
The hike always starts in Cabanaconde, and is usually 3 days. Guided trips do the overcrowded east loop; sleeping in San Juan de Chucco & Sangalle. The west loop is more authentic, staying in Llahuar & Sangalle. Both share the same last day, walking directly up a 1,000m cliff back to Cabanaconde. This is perfect for hiking independently, and Kevin made it his first thru-hike doing the 3 day west loop solo.
I was very fit at the time and wanted a challenge. I decided to trail run both loops, stopping only in Sangalle on the same night as Kevin. The day he started his hike, I headed to and climbed Chachani (6,075m). Still tired, I took a 2:40am bus to Cabanaconde, which had me starting the next day at 9:00am. The two loops had their own distinct sights and feel, so I’m glad I got to see both.
Day 1
2:40am is horribly early, but necessary to start hiking that day. The bus drove high into the mountains on winding roads, stopping for breakfast in a spot that was somehow colder than yesterday’s 6,000m summit. We stopped at viewpoints to watch Andean Condors circling above, and to peer deep into the canyon. Finally we reached colourful Cabanaconde at 8:30am. I jogged to the west loop trailhead, not knowing how long of a day this would be. I signed a book at the entrance, and off I went.
This trail is so runnable. On the surface it was grassy and fun, weaving around boulders and stone walls. Then it turned into a daunting 1,000m descent, which had the perfect gradient, making running easier than walking. I flew around zig-zags and followed the trail down the valley feeling so free. On the other side, you can see the irrigation channels and green farming communities. There were picnic benches with bins as I ran, and in the distance I could now see the large oasis at the bottom of the valley where I’d stay tonight.
The trail was wide and easy underfoot. Solid dirt with no rocks, so I felt confident going fast. I only saw one other person (west loop is so quiet), and was quickly crossing the bridge at the bottom. I passed Llahuar in just under one hour, which is where Kevin stayed the night before. I saw natural geysers and the hot pools he’d swam in. I kept a fast pace in the hopes of catching him on trail.
I passed the small communities set around hardy shrubs and cactus, in between which it was all scorching desert. Next was a steep ascent to a condor statue and viewpoint, then a long descent to Sangalle. I unknowingly passed Kevin here, taking a steep trail while he opted for zig-zags. Approaching the village, everything is green, with beautiful bridges over the rapids. I accidentally checked into the wrong hotel, and only after showering realised, but no harm done and I walked back up through the village where I found Kevin in the correct one.
The hotel was amazing, surrounded by intimidatingly steep cliffs. Kevin & I swam for as long as we could in the icy water, eventually putting on all the clothes we had when the sun set and the temperatures dropped. We were joined at the hotel by two Canadians and three Germans, with whom we had dinner and played dice games that night. Snacks and water were expensive down here (for good reason), but we still bought tonnes. We booked breakfasts for the morning and slept well. I was tired but delighted, having run the 20.5km in 3hrs 20mins.
Day 2
Now for the big one. There are two buses from Cabanaconde to Arequipa every day; 9:00am & 11:30am. We had breakfast (amazing pancakes with bananas & syrup) at 5:00am, and I left at 5:30am. I set myself a target of three hours, to run the east loop; 15.5km with 1,650m gain. Kevin was leaving at 6:00am for his 5km with 1,000m gain, and we hoped to make the first bus, but weren’t worried if it fell to the next one. That was the plan.
I took off fast, over the bridges and up the steep trails I’d come down yesterday. From the top I could see Kevin starting up his trail in the distance, and I ran on up the valley. This east loop is completely different. A maze of trails through far more homes and farms. Much greener, but busy with signs for hikers, and I would later pass huge guided groups. I saw scrawny alpacas and huge pigs, a village with a very fancy soccer pitch, and rapids as big as the Indus. I reached my bridge at the head of the valley and was staring up the vertical kilometre that was left.
This climb felt never ending, but I loved it. I kept a fast pace all the way, and every time I looked back felt proud. I passed groups coming down, and jogged more and more as it finally levelled out. The top had cool viewpoints, then a final two kilometres of road to the town. I got looks from hikers and people on buses for running, but I knew I was close to my three hour target. Sprinting through the streets, I prayed for the main square to appear, finally seeing Kevin and stopping my watch as I touched the fence where I’d been dropped off yesterday. 2hrs 59mins 47s.
Kevin had only been five minutes ahead of me, and we boarded the 9:00am bus that was about to leave, loaded with cheap drinks and yoghurts from the shop. It took eight hours to get back, and our favourite hostel was full, but we found somewhere new and got clean. That evening we had the most well deserved burgers ever, followed by beers and a bag of snacks from the supermarket on our roof. I could see Chachani in the distance, and felt so fulfilled. It was finally time to rest.
If you’re ever in Peru, please do this hike, and ideally do it unguided. The east loop is nice, but it’s the quiet nature on the west loop that was so memorable (and the icy pool in Sangalle). I was so proud of Kevin for doing this solo, and I think it gave him a lot of confidence in his own ability. It’s not an easy trail by any means, but in many ways it’s a perfect one for beginners, with nice route marking and hotels along the way. The canyon is incredible, and getting down to river level is where you can really feel that.
Happy adventuring,
Brian
